CoreFlooringStackedLogo%5B1%5D.jpg

Monday - Friday: 9:00 am  8:00 pm

Saturday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm

Sunday: 12:00 pm -  5:00 pm

3-890 Main street East

Milton, Ontario  L9T 0J4

(South West corner of Main & Thompson)


Telephone:  905-864-9901

info@coreflooring.com


dsgn_2031_button0_p.png
 

1) Important - Before You Begin�

Install floor last when doing renovations Heat your home for at least one week before installation Keep subfloor dry and make sure basement is well ventilated

Core Flooring Classics

  • Acclimatize wood for at least 24 hours before installation

  • Maintain relative humidity between 40% and 50%

Core Flooring Engineered

  • Engineered floors do not need to be acclimatized prior to installation

  • Maintain relative humidity between 40% and 60%

2) Recommended Tools and Accessories

Vacuum cleaner or broom
Scraper
Leveling bar
Level
Leveling compound (optional)
#20 grit sand paper (optional)
Wood moisture meter
Flooring screws
#15 black felt paper (or equivalent)
Miter saw
Handsaw
Claw hammer
Nail punch
Pry bar
Square 16" x 24"
Measuring tape
Chalk line
touch-up kit
maintenance kit

Core Flooring Classics

Recommended nailers and staplers:

  • Primatech P210 pneumatic or H300 manual, 2" (50 mm) cleats and rubber mallet - www.primatech.ca
  • Powernail 445 pneumatic or 45 manual, 2" (50 mm) cleats and rubber mallet - www.powernail.com
  • Bostitch MIIIFN pneumatic or MFN 200, 2" (50 mm) cleats and rubber mallet - www.bostitch.com
  • Bostitch MIIIFS pneumatic stapler, 2" (50 mm) staples - www.bostitch.com
  • Power drill and 3/32" (2 mm) bit
  • Finishing nails, 2½" (63 mm)

Core Flooring Engineere

Recommended pneumatic staplers for 3/8" (10 mm) thick strips:

Recommended pneumatic staplers for ½" (13 mm) thick boards:
  • Senco SLS20HF, 1" (25 mm) staples - www.senco.com
  • Power drill and 1/16" (1.5 mm) bit
  • Finishing nails, 2½" (38 mm)

3) Subfloor

1. Check subfloor moisture level

Wooden subfloor moisture reading must not exceed 12% and differential between boards and subfloor must be less than 4%. If moisture reading is too high, postpone installation, and find moisture source and correct it. If needed, raise heat and increase ventilation until proper conditions are met.

Owner and installer are solely and jointly responsible for pre-installation subfloor moisture level check and must ensure that it is, and remains, within the recommended range.

2. Check subfloor conditions

Check soundness of subfloor and correct if necessary. It must also be flat. If necessary, flatten down any irregularities using #20 grit paper or fill any uneven spots with leveling compound.

3. Clean subfloor

Subfloor must be clean and free of contaminants.

4) Preparation

4. Sketch out the installation

Determine starting point or wall and strip layout angle. It is recommended that you lay strips at a 90° or 45° angle to joists.

5. Lay felt paper

Lay felt paper [or equivalent] across entire surface to be covered.

6. Open a few boxes and lay out strips in the same way as they will be installed

To create a more pleasing appearance, lay out the floor strips throughout the room in the same way as they will be installed to ensure a good mix of colors and nuances. Remove or relocate strips you do not want. Select which strips go best with transition moldings that will be installed.

Tip: Pay attention to the patterns created by the variations in the color of the wood.
Tip: Keep less attractive strips for areas of the room where they'll be less visible.

5) Laying Strips

7. Draw a line to properly align the first row

Using a chalk line, draw a guideline parallel to starting wall and perpendicular to adjacent one, adding ¾" (19 mm) to strip width to account for expansion gap and strip tongue. For example, if installing 2 ¼" (57 mm) strips, draw guideline 3" (75 mm) from starting wall.

Tip: Use longest and straightest strips for the first row.

8. Place, drill, and nail the first row

Align first strip with tongue side toward starting line and grooved side facing the starting wall; leave ¼" (6 mm) gap from right side wall, which is perpendicular to starting line. Drill and nail strip from above, as close to wall as possible to hide nail heads when baseboards and quarter rounds are in place. Install subsequent strips from right to left until ready to trim row end strips.

9. Use trimmed strips to start next row

To minimize trim waste, select strip long enough for row end, so that remaining trimmed end may be used to start subsequent row. Leave ¼" (6 mm) gap at end of each row. To prevent end-joint alignment effect, first strip of second row must be at least 6" [150 mm] shorter or longer than that of first row.

10. Nail first rows by hand

Since wall proximity prohibits use of nailer, use a hammer and nail punch to drive finishing nails approximately every 4" [100 mm] alongside tongue for first few rows.

11. Use nailer as soon as possible

Subsequent rows must be installed the same way, using the nailer.

Core Flooring Classics

Nail strips every 8" to 10" [200 to 250 mm], and at least 3" [75 mm] from each strip end.

Core Flooring Engineere

Staple strips about every 4" to 5" [100 to 250 mm], and at least 2" [50 mm] from each strip end.

Nailer Tips

- Keep nailer base plate clean and free from nicks at all times
- When not in use, place on piece of plywood or cardboard
- Ensure that nailer base sits flat on the floor and plumb against tongue before nailing strip down
- Check nailer condition regularly
- Adjust compressor air pressure
- Be careful when nailing joints and stairs

6) Finishing

12. Nail last rows by hand

The last 4 or 5 rows should be installed the same way as first rows due to proximity to wall.

Core Flooring Classics

You may have to trim strips placed along the wall to leave the ½" (13 mm) needed for the expansion gap.

Core Flooring Engineere

You may have to trim strips placed along the wall to leave the ¼" (6 mm) needed for the expansion gap.

13. Install baseboards

Install transition moldings, stair nosings, and reducers. Reinstall baseboards and quarter rounds. Be sure to nail them to the walls and not the floor so the floor can move naturally. When installing transition molding, pay attention to the color of adjacent strips and make sure they go well together.

14. Clean floor with Mirage Clean

When installation is completed, vacuum the floor thoroughly, spray light mist of Mirage Clean and clean floor

15. Install protective felt pads under furniture legs

Place pads under corners of appliances so they do not damage floor as they are moved.

16. Lift when moving furniture

Tip: Set a few strips aside in case future repairs are required.

Top


InstaClic is a revolutionary system for installing laminate floors without using glue. The panels can be clicked together simply thanks to the ingenious shape of the tongue and groove. InstaClic is unique because you can install the planks in two different ways:

Method A: Position the panel to be installed at an angle of 20 to 30° to the panel already installed. Move the panel gently up and down while exerting forward pressure. The panels will automatically click into place. You can either insert the tongue into the groove, or the groove on to the tongue. The tongue in groove method is the most common and easiest
way.

Method B: With InstaClic you can also tap the panels into each other without lifting. For this method you must use the special InstaClic tapping block. The planks should not be joined with a single tap. To avoid damaging the panels you must tap them together gradually.

Tools for installing the floor

For best results, it is essential that you follow the installation instructions exactly. Besides the regular tools for installing laminate floors (i.e. hammer, saw, pencil, measure) you will also need the following accessories:

‧ Installation kit (pullbar, spacers (1-8 mm / 0.039”-0.315”) and InstaClic adapted tapping block).
‧ Underlayment system
‧ Maintenance products

The use of accessories other than Core Flooring accessories might cause damage to the Core floor. In such case the warranty provided by Core will be void. We recommend using Core accessories as these have been specially designed and tested for the use with Core floor panels.

Use a fine-toothed handsaw, a jigsaw or a crosscut saw to cut the panels. To obtain a clean cut, the pattern side should face down when you use a jigsaw, saber saw or circular handsaw and up when you use a handsaw
or a crosscut saw.

10 focus points

1. Thanks to the InstaClicR system, the floor floats and is installed without glue. You can walk on the floor during and immediately after installation.
2. With InstaClicR panels you can choose where you want to begin. Think about what will be the easiest way to install the floor. We will demonstrate the installation for right-handed people, from left to right. You can work in the other direction if you want.
3. Make sure the panels are mixed sufficiently when you install them, so that you do not end up with too many identical, light or dark panels next to each other.
4. Check all panels in daylight before and during installation. Defective panels must never be used.
5. The floor should preferably be installed parallel to how the light enters the room. The ideal climate conditions are 15-20°C (59-68°F) at a relative humidity of 50-60%.
6. Let the planks acclimatize for 48 hours in the unopened packaging at the normal room temperature, in the middle of the room where the floor is to be installed.
7. Room humidity can vary according to the season, so it is vital that the floor is able to expand and contract. For this reason, make sure you leave a minimum expansion on joint of 8 to 10 mm (5/16" to 3/8”) on all sides of the floor, around pipes, thresholds and under doors.
8. Large rooms must have expansion joints every 13m (40 feet) widthwise to the panels and 13m (40 feet) length-wise. It is recommended having an expansion joint between different rooms (e.g. under the door). Expansion joints can be finished by means of a molding that is attached to the subfloor.
9. Ensure that the end joints of the panels in two successive rows are never in line. Always ensure that the joints are staggered by at least 15 cm / 6 inches.
10.We recommend you purchase a few extra cartons of flooring. this will be useful to you if you have some damaged pieces, miscalulate the size of the room or miss cut some pieces. This also will help you if your floor needs a repair but your product is no longer manufactured.

Preparing the room

‧ Check that the doors can still open and close after the floor and underlayment have been installed (minimum + 1 cm (3/8”)
‧ Check whether the old molding can be removed. You can also leave the wall base and finish the floor with Core Flooring profiles.
‧ Make sure the subfloor is flat. Any unevenness greater than 2 mm (1/16”) over the length of 1 meter (40”) must be smoothed out. It is vital that you use underlayments to smooth any unevenness in the subfloor. The specially designed Mohawk underlayments have a dampproof, insulating, noise reducing and leveling function. The smooth top surface makes installing the floor panels easier and ensures ample expansion afterwards. You can find more information about Core Flooring underlayments and how to install them on the underlayment packaging or at your dealer.
‧ Make sure the subfloor is clean and dry.

CONCRETE SUBFLOOR:

New Construction:
‧ A new concrete floor must dry at least 1 week per 1 cm (3/8”) thickness up to 4 cm (1-1/2"). Thicknesses over 4 cm (1-1/2") require twice as much drying time. For example, a 6cm (2-1/2") concrete subfloor must dry for at least 8 weeks. The moisture content must be less than 2.5% (CM method) or less than 5 lbs/24h.1000sqft (Calcium chloride method ASTM 1869).
‧ If there is underfloor heating, the subfloor must not exceed 84F° (29°C) and the moisture content must be less than 1.5% (CM method). You do need to follow special installation instructions. Please ask your dealer for more information.

Renovation:
‧ Remove any damp-porous floor covering (carpet, needle felt, etc.) first.
‧ Damp-sealed floor covering (PVC, linoleum, VCT, etc.) does not have to be removed. Always use Core Flooring underlayment. We advise to use Core Flooring Underlayment.

WOODEN SUBFLOOR

‧ Remove any existing damp-porous floor covering first.
‧ Make sure the plank floor is stable. Nail down any loose parts and add a leveling layer if necessary.
‧ Install the InstaclicR panels crosswise to the direction of the existing subfloor.
‧ It is necessary that the crawl space under the plank floor is sufficiently ventilated. Remove any obstacles and provide sufficient ventilation (minimum 4 cm (1-1/2") of total ventilation holes per meter (40”) of floor). The moisture content of the wood may not exceed 12%.

Installing the floor

‧ First install the underlayment, per width and gradually as you progress. If the underlayment is pre-mounted on
the panels, then only use the dampproof moisture barrier with adhesive tape as privided. For concrete, let the moisture barrier run up the wall a bit before cutting to size. A molding will be attached to this later. For wood, cut the moisture barrier 1 inch from the wall.
‧ Begin the first row with a whole plank. First saw off the tongue on both the long and the short sides.
‧ Put the plank with sawn off sides against the walls. Put spacers from the installation kit between the planks and the wall. This will ensure that your expansion joint is wide enough: 8 to 10 mm (5/16" to 3/8”).
‧ In places where it is too difficult to install the InstaClicR planks with the tapping block (e.g. against the wall), you can tap them together using the pullbar and a hammer.
‧ There must also be an 8 to 10 mm (5/16" to 3/8”) expansion joint between the last row and the wall. Keep this in mind when sawing the last row of panels.

Pipes

In rows where there is a pipe, make sure the pipe falls exactly in line with the short side of two panels. Take a drill bit with the same diameter as the pipe plus 20 mm (3/4”) for the expansion. Click the panels together on the short side and drill a hole centered on the joint between the two panels. Now you can install the panels in the floor.

Under doorframes

When sawing the panels, ensure that the expansion joint under the door is at least 10 mm (3/8”). If you cannot lift
the panel, use an adapted InstaClicR tapping block or pullbar and hammer to tap the panels together with the planks are flat on the floor.

Finishing

‧ Remove all spacers.
‧ Install the molding on the plastic membrane that runs up the wall from under the floor. Never attach the molding to the floor. This method allows the floor to expand and contract under the molding.
‧ For a perfect finish around pipes, use rosettes or caulking.
‧ In places where profiles or skirting cannot be placed, fill expansion gaps with caulking.

Top


Installation Checklist

What you'll need are the proper instructions--and a little patience.

Familiarize yourself with the basics steps for ceramic installation to help you decide if it's a job you'd like to tackle.

Sub-floor Preparation

This is the most important step in accomplishing a satisfactory installation. The subfloor must be structurally sound, rigid, smooth, flat, and free of curing compounds and waxy or oily films. Depending on your existing subfloor, you may need to lay a cement backer board before installing your tile.

Floor Layout

In this step, youll square off the room and measure it. Use a chalk-line device to determine where you'll start laying the tile.

Preparing the Tiles

Slight tone variations are to be expected from tile to tile. Mix tiles from several cartons before installation to ensure a good blend of shades.

Spreading Thinset

Using chalk lines as a guide, begin applying the thinset. Spread one coat using the flat side of the trowel and then immediately come back with second coat, using the notched side of the trowel.
Laying the Tiles

Place the tiles one at a time in the thinset by twisting and pressing, while allowing appropriate spacing for the grout. Use a straight edge or spacers to align the tile.

Grouting

It is important to allow the thinset enough time to set before applying the grout. It may be best to begin grouting the following day. Apply the grout over one small section at a time and is spread with a rubber float or a squeegee. Pull the grout firmly over the flooring surface to both push the grout into the joints and clean off most of the excess grout. Finally, use a damp sponge and very little water to rinse.

Top


Most manufacturers today have more than 300 styles of vinyl flooring to choose from. The trend has changed from a glossy look on your floors to a matte finish that gives a more natural look. There is a little bit of something for everyone.

A good place to start with vinyl flooring selection is at Core Flooring. Experts there can give you good advice when choosing vinyl flooring patterns and colors, and can also calculate the amount of flooring needed for an installation. It is helpful to take a picture of the room with you when you go to look for vinyl. It helps to look at the paint, wallpapering, fabric samples, countertops etc. when selecting your flooring. Core Flooring will let you borrow a sample to take home with you so you can compare the colour and style in different lighting.

Price ranges can meet any budget. Vinyl lends itself very well to areas where it is subject to moisture, high traffic areas—such as kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and hallways.

Materials and tools needed:

vinyl flooring
tape measure
patching compound
small putty knife
utility knife or heavy-duty shears
roll of craft paper
masking tape
double-stick tape
handsaw
vinyl and seaming adhesive
fine-notched trowel
steel hand roller
4 pieces of 1/8" plywood (for sliding furniture on)

1. Choose the vinyl flooring to be installed.

2. Make a sketch of the room where the vinyl will be installed and measure accurately the room's dimensions. Bring this drawing to the Core Flooring. When figuring the amount of vinyl flooring needed, add a few inches to each of the room's dimensions to allow extra material for cutting, trimming, and centering the pattern in the room.

3. Check the sub-floor to make sure it is in good condition. It needs to be flat and completely smooth. On concrete sub-floors, fill in any holes or low-lying areas with a patching compound. Mix the compound with water to the consistency of mayonnaise and spread with a small trowel. Let dry for about an hour. While patching compound is drying, remove quarter round in room and do a final clean up, making sure the floor surface is completely clean.

Tip: To trim a door frame so that the vinyl flooring will fit nicely, take a scrap piece of the flooring that is going to be installed and lay it down next to the door frame. Using a handsaw, turn it on its side and saw the bottom of the door frame off. This will give the exact space needed for the flooring to fit underneath the door frame.

4. Lay out the vinyl flooring in the room and mark the area where the excess will be cut out. Cut with a utility knife or heavy-duty shears. Save any excess vinyl flooring for installing in a closet, laundry room, or small bathroom.

Tip: For any corners that are cut, reinforce with two pieces of masking tape. This will help protect the corner from tearing as the vinyl flooring is moved into position.

5. Lay the flooring in its final position with plenty of excess around each wall. Make relief cuts around obstructions. For an inside corner, cut small half circles until the vinyl lays flat to the floor. For an outside corner, make straight relief cuts.

6. Roll back the vinyl flooring next to the wall to expose the sub-floor. To create a partial template along the wall (in order to make an exact cut), roll out some craft paper along the length of the wall.

Tip: Single sheets of 8-1/2" x 11" paper can be taped together if you don't have a craft paper roll.

7. Line up the edge of the craft paper against the wall and lightly tape down the paper to the floor using very small pieces of masking tape approximately every two feet (this is only to keep the craft paper from moving on the floor). Next, apply a strip of double-stick tape every two feet or so to the craft paper and remove the backing from the top side of the tape.

8. Roll the vinyl back into position over the template and press down firmly to adhere the vinyl to the template. Gently lift the vinyl back up to reveal the template stuck to the vinyl backing. The outer edge of the paper is where the vinyl should be cut.

9. Using a straightedge (a large square was used in the show) and a protective piece of scrap wood to lay underneath the vinyl, carefully cut the vinyl along the template edge. Repeat steps 6 through 8 along each wall in the room. The vinyl should be in its final position and trimmed exactly to each wall.

Note: Perimeter adhesion allows the flooring in the unadhered areas to float over the top of any imperfections. If the floor had any roughness in it, it would mask it very nicely. It is best to talk to the retailer about the type of adhering because there are a lot of different floorings available. Some use perimeter adhesion, some full adhesion and some can be adhered either way. Purchase the right vinyl adhesive at the same time the flooring is purchased. Also, the directions on the adhesive container will tell you the right trowel, etc. to use.

10. For perimeter adhesion: open the can of adhesive material and, using a fine-notched trowel, spread a band along the wall about 6 inches wide.

11. Lay the vinyl back down into position and use a hand roller or block of wood wrapped in a clean cloth to seat the flooring to the adhesive. Using the wood wrapped in a cloth would save money—you would not have to purchase a new tool!

Tip: For full adhesion, spread the adhesive material onto the entire floor surface and roll the vinyl flooring back down into place. Seat the flooring with a hand roller or block, applying firm pressure to ensure good adhesion. Allow to dry for 2 to 4 hours—you have a good solid bond after that. If you fully adhere the vinyl, you would need to keep heavy traffic and furniture off it for at least the first 24 hours.

12. Replace quarter round and trim along the walls of the room.

13. After the adhesion has dried, move furniture back in using four sheets of thin plywood or similar material to slide the furniture across the floor.

14. Cleaning and maintaining is simple: keep it swept and use a damp mop with a no-rinse cleaner.

Top


In this age of do-it-yourself home improvement projects, installing carpet requires a specialized skill. Core Flooring recommends that you rely on the expertise of a professional installation team to ensure your satisfaction with the product for years to come. However, there are a few things you can do to prepare for the arrival of your new carpet.
Preparing for the installation

Aside from the furniture, you can make sure things go smoothly before installation day by taking care of the following beforehand:

* Remove all breakable items, like vases, lamps, collectibles, and heirlooms
* Remove, Detach and store wiring from TVs, VCR/DVD Players, stereos, and computers
* Remove, Clear desktops, tabletops, bookshelves, tops of dressers and closet floors
* Remove all sheets, blankets, bedspreads and beds

Before the installers arrive, vacuum the old carpet to minimize the airborne dust and particles.
During the installation

Your installers will arrive with the knowledge , tools and supplies to lay your new carpet. However, they will need an area to store their electrical tools and access to electrical power outlets for their tools.

Bear in mind that your new floor coverings need to be installed over a structurally sound subfloor. Any damage that has been done by insects, water, or other problems should be repaired prior to carpet installation.
After the installation

In the months following installation, you may notice some shedding or sprouting. This is normal and will not affect the carpet’s life or beauty in any way. Shedding is when loose fibers become undone from carpets made with staple yarn. This is normal and subsides within a short time with vacuuming. Sprouting is when a single tuft extends beyond the carpet surface, usually along walls or at seams. Simply clip it off; do not pull.

Top